JULIA SPENCER-FLEMING: Does she need an introduction? Ladies and gentlemen, Celia Wakefield.
It’s now more than four months that I've been away from my
kitchen. No place to cook in my tiny apartment as a dead two ring electric
burner, plus electric kettle and toaster together with a tiny fridge and
microwave does not kitchen make in my eyes.
Writing and testing a recipe for you has been my JRW Sunday
joy over the past few years. Now despite of my lack of a kitchen Julia has
taken pity on me and has accepted my commentary on cook books, thank you
Julia. (Editor’s note: I told her the JRW readers would riot if they
couldn’t get a Sunday column from her.)
"When I am not cooking, I'm reading." Asked
about my passion, that is my first response and I would guess that it
applies to many of us here at JRW. I would guess that we own or have owned The Joy of Cooking. In my case the British equivalent was Constance Spry Cookery
Book. My copy was a twenty first birthday present from my aunt who worked at
Winkfield, the finishing school owned by Mrs Spry and Rosemary Hume. (Winkfield
closed back in the ’90’s).
The Constance Spry Cookery Book is a most comprehensive
book covering a huge range of house wifery skills too numerous to list. It is
still available. So imagine my surprise to discover small book called RATIO: TheSimple Codes Behind the Craft of Everyday Cooking, by Michael Ruhlman. Having
reviewed it on line I promptly ordered 2 copies; one for me and one for a
newly married friend who is cookery challenged.
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| The "kitchen" is next to the table! |
Here for example is the ratio for bread: 5 parts flour: 3
parts water." even after the hundreds of books on food I've bought,
skimmed, read and even recommended, this was an approach I hadn't considered. I
wanted to write about this approach and share the RATIO idea with you.
While I consider myself to be a bit of a 'toss it in' type
cook and I have encouraged you to follow your instincts when faced with the
'what’s for dinner' conundrum, I accept that to bake, it makes sense to follow
the recipe carefully. Here is Mr. Ruhlman stating that we can do it all by
Ratio. The following is at the beginning of the book.
The Ratios -
Doughs
Bread = 5 parts flour: 3 parts water (plus yeast and salt)
Pasta Dough = 3 parts flour: 2 parts egg
Pie Dough = 3 parts flour: 2 parts fat: 1 part water
Biscuit = 3 parts flour: 1 part fat: 2 parts liquid
Cookie Dough = 1 part sugar: 2 parts fat: 3 parts flour
Pâte à Choux = 2 parts water: 1 part butter: 1 part flour: 2
parts egg
Batters Pound Cake = 1 part butter: 1 part sugar: 1 part
egg: 1 part flour
Sponge Cake = 1 part egg: 1 part sugar: 1 part flour: 1 part
butter
Angel Food Cake = 3 parts egg white: 3 parts sugar: 1 part
flour
Quick Bread = 2 parts flour: 2 parts liquid: 1 part egg: 1
part butter
Muffin = 2 parts flour: 2 parts liquid: 1 part egg: 1 part
butter
Fritter = 2 parts flour: 2 parts liquid: 1 part egg
Pancake = 2 parts flour: 2 parts liquid: 1 part egg: ½ part
butter
Popover = 2 parts liquid: 1 part egg: 1 part flour
Crepe = 1 part liquid: 1 part egg: ½ part flour
Stocks and Sauces
Stock = 3 parts water: 2 parts bones
Consommé = 12 parts stock: 3 parts meat: 1 part mirepoix: 1
part egg white
Roux = 3 parts flour: 2 parts fat
Thickening Ratio = 10 parts liquid: 1 part roux
Beurre Manié = 1 part flour: 1 part butter (by volume)
Slurry = 1 part cornstarch: 1 part water (by volume)
Thickening Rule = 1 tablespoon starch will thicken 1 cup
liquid
The Farçir
Sausage = 3 parts meat: 1 part fat
Sausage Seasoning = 60 parts meat/fat: 1 part salt
Mousseline = 8 parts meat: 4 parts cream: 1 part egg
Brine = 20 parts water: 1 part salt
Fat-Based Sauces
Mayonnaise = 20 parts oil: 1 part liquid (plus yolk)
Vinaigrette = 3 parts oil: 1 part vinegar,
Hollandaise = 5 parts butter: 1 part yolk: 1 part
liquid
Custards
Free-Standing Custard = 2 parts liquid: 1 part egg
Crème Anglaise = 4 parts milk/cream: 1 part yolk: 1 part
sugar
Chocolate Sauce = 1 part chocolate: 1 part cream
Caramel Sauce = 1 part sugar: 1 part cream.
Ratios printed above have been taken from Ruhlman's book.
However even if my cooking is via toaster or microwave, I
still love to read about it. Over the past few months I haven't been buying
much food that can be microwaved but I have been buying several cookbooks which
give me great joy.
Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat by Samin Nosrat was made into an
entertaining Netflix show with plenty of important tips on what foods work well
and how to enhance your meals. She has just written a sequel of her experiences
- Good Things, Recipes and Rituals to Share with People you Love. It has been
very well reviewed. Samin is quoted, "Once I had these off to you these
recipes are no longer mine." She sees her act of writing as a connection,
an invitation to sit and eat together. I heartily agree with her. I have
shared many recipes with JRW over our time together. Some are my originals or
my take on a particular recipe and some come directly from other authors,
bloggers or publications. I always try to acknowledge the provenance.
This led me to cooking dinner during my last visit to Maine
when Julia and the boys were staying to keep me company. As the temperature had
dropped significantly I chose to make tomato soup served with raclette cheese
paninis. Julia asked me for the recipe so I am reproducing it here. But
this is my take and doesn’t have much relation to the commercial tomato soup of
childhood. (Editor’s note: Thank God!)
Tomato Soup for Julia
16 oz jar of sweet basil tomato sauce; I used Boves Sauce
Half a sweet onion chopped
8 Garlic cloves peeled and chopped in half
Doz. plus cherry tomatoes cut in half
3 Tblsp olive oil
2 Tblsp or to taste Italian tomato paste – the good quality
kind in a tube
1Cup water
1 Cup heavy cream and more to taste at
Sugar, salt, pepper to serve as needed
In a heavy bottom pot heat the olive oil on a low heat
Add onion and garlic, stir to mix and cook on a low heat for
15 or so minutes till soft and clarified, don't allow to brown
Add tomatoes and stir, staying on low heat til softened.
Add tomato sauce and stir together
Pour water into tomato jar, tighten lid and shake to remove
sauce in the jar,
Add to pan, mix and continue to cook over low heat
Add tomato paste as season to taste
Cook another five minutes then add cream and mix
Serve hot and top with your choices of sour cream, Parmesan,
cilantro or spring onions, even some pesto would work.
But to get back to the cookbooks. One stand out feature is
the beautiful book presentation. Just look at the end pieces of Stanley
Tucci’s, Taste: My Life Through Food. Who could resist those gorgeous tomatoes?
Another book is Amanda Hesser’s, The Cook and the Gardener, Recipes and Writings from France, telling the tale of 22 year old Amanda at the beginning
of her outstanding career in food, which encompasses a James Beard Award, time
at the NYT, as well as Founder of Food 52. Who could pass such a storied book
by? The illustrations alone are worth the price.
What are your favorite cook books or cooking stories, Reds? I’m
giving away a copy of BOURDAIN: The Definitive Oral Biography, to one commentor.