Thursday, May 21, 2026

TRAVELING WHILE FEMALE by BARBARA O’NEAL


LUCY BURDETTE: I am always so happy to welcome writer Barbara O’Neal to the blog—and even happier that her newest book, A THOUSAND PAINTED HOURS, will be published in August. (I have already pre-ordered.) She has some interesting thoughts today on traveling as a single woman…


BARBARA O’NEAL: Last night, I was on a fairly empty train rather late, at the SFO airport. It was grim lighting, that tungsten glow that makes everything seedy.

It occurred to me with some surprise that I wasn’t worried about it. As a young woman, I would have been looking over my shoulder, checking for men who might be dangerous. Constantly. I am still aware—I’m not a fool; I can still be pickpocketed or mugged—but this is no longer an overarching, constant, tense, alert worry. I walk through the world like a man. At ease. Sure. Because I have crossed into the blessed territory of invisibility.

What a delight.

Eating dinner at the airport food court, I saw a young man pass, staring at a very young woman at a table in front of me. She was eating. Her hair was a little messy from travel. She didn’t notice him, but he walked twenty feet staring at her so obviously that it irritated me. I wanted to stand up and whack him with my purse. Keep walking, bud.

I remembered when it was me worrying about the unwanted attention of some random guy, finding a place to sit between an old woman and a mother with a child so the strange man couldn’t sit near me.

My son, age 25 or so, talked about going out to the New York clubs with a small group of women. One was very fearful, jumping at shadows, worried about alleyways and knots of guys on the street. Her friend said, “Don’t worry, Ian is with us. No one will mess with us.”

He said, recounting that story to me later, “I had no idea women worry about this all the time. All. The. Time. Did you know?”

Um, yes, son. I did.

I’m taking my granddaughter to Japan next month. She’s 14 and leggy and eccentric, with a wild head of hair that draws the longing gaze of white women (“I love your hair”) but also the meanness of boys at middle school. I feel some sense of relief about the safety of that country, but I also know I will be instructing her constantly, quietly, on how to be female while traveling. I want her to be mighty. And safe.

I honestly worry less about this one than her younger sister. My wild-haired girl is fierce and knows her own mind. She’s the girl other kids ran to when they were being bullied. Her sister is pliant and a pleaser and very pretty in that way some males want to claim—if it is beautiful, it is mine. We will go somewhere, too, in a couple of years. She longs for Germany, which she visited a couple of years ago. I will instruct her carefully.

I wish this was not necessary. I wish I had not spent 40 years sizing up every space I walked through. I traveled anyway, but often I was nervous.

Now I stride through the world like a white man, able to occupy any space without apology or fear. I just wish my granddaughters could begin here, instead of waiting decades to age into it. 

Readers, do you worry when you’re traveling or otherwise out of your element?

More from Lucy, Barbara has some news for the upcoming A Thousand Painted Hours: If you would like a signed copy, you can order one now, and we have some very special things that go along with it. The first is a giveaway of an original piece of collage art I created to commemorate the book. One golden ticket in the books will win the original art.

To order a signed copy, visit Author, Author


You can also pre-order all the other versions—kindle, hardcover ($2 off if you order now), paperback or audio, which is going to be especially fantastic this time. I’ve heard the clips from my narrator and I am so very excited. Pre-orders really help visibility of a book, so I appreciate any help in that direction.


32 comments:

  1. Congratulations, Barbara, on your new book . . . maybe you could tell us a bit about the story?
    I do worry if I'm traveling alone, but mostly it's about getting lost or missing a connection or making a mistake and messing up . . . .

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    1. Posted the description below. I do worry about missed connections, especially lately with so many wind and construction delays.

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  2. Like you, I'm in the invisible phase of life and I also stride with confidence. When I travel, it's mostly alone, and I don't worry.

    I lived in Japan fifty years ago, and while I was the right height, I was a white young woman who didn't keep my gaze trained on the floor. I got a lot of stares and comments from men. I was studying Japanese but never learned to swear. Finally I started saying "F*** off" to the men - in English - and they got the message.

    I also have a wild-haired granddaughter, who is beautiful and Black and 2 1/2. I look forward to the day when I can take her on a trip.

    Congratulations on the new book - I echo Joan: can you tell us more about it?

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    1. I am so looking forward to having her to myself for two whole weeks!

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  3. Sorry Joan and Edith, I forgot to ask her that. We will get her to say more in the comments!

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  4. Barbara, congratulations on your new book. The cover is stunning!

    I have traveled alone frequently over the years and am wary, even now. I moved to Israel by myself in 1975 and stayed there for two years. Although I spent my first 6 months learning to speak the language, it was still culture shock for me, and I tried to be careful and aware of my surroundings constantly. The culture back then was a mixture of Middle Eastern and Western, with half the population made up of the Jewish families forced to leave their Arab countries when Israel became a state in 1948. The women with that background dressed and, for the most part, behaved more modestly than Americans It was, and still is, a melting pot of people from all over the world.

    In my mid-20's, I traveled through Europe with a gorgeous blond, blue-eyed friend. We bought Eurail passes and spent 6 weeks staying in pensions and walking around cities. She turned heads wherever we went, and some unwanted attention became absolutely cringeworthy. Brown hair and brown-eyed, I also had some unwanted attention but the two of us managed pretty well.

    I think that women do need to be careful, even now, because we are always targets of someone. These days, I try not to bring a purse to the grocery store or on other shopping excursions for that reason.

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    1. What an adventurer you were! I live in a very small town, so grocery store isn’t a place to worry here. (I once dropped my wallet on the boardwalk and the people who found it tracked me down through facebook and messaged me to return it!) I also now have a phone with a wallet case that is so convenient!

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  5. Growing up in San Juan, Puerto Rico, with parents who let me walk around the city during the day (something my Puerto Rican girl friends weren't allowed to do), I started being aggressively approached and even followed by men from the age of 12. It was scary, but I quickly learned to keep my eyes down, ignore all comments, and, if needed, duck into shops and wait until the coast was clear. When I started traveling alone as a young adult--New York, various European cities, and Japan--I was harassed and occasionally followed, and I still found it frightening, but I knew what to do. Today, at grandmother age, I still worry about being mugged, but no one follows me, crooning obscenities. It's a great relief.

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    1. Good point that knowing what to do makes a difference. Wary is good. Fearful has a scent.

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    2. Yes, you're right, and I shouldn't have said I worry about being mugged--I don't. But I always wear my purse across my body, and I'm aware that it can happen anytime, anywhere. Aware but not scared!

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    3. Oh, I didn't take it that way at all. I took it that you are wise and wary.

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  6. Also of that invisible age, but I don't think I turned heads ever. My Dad was a teamster organizer when he came back from WW2 and he gave me lots of stances, stare-down advice and actual self-defense (whoops my college book-bag just hit you in the balls) moves. Then I became clergy and (even without a collar) guys sense it and, if they don't, I say "I will pray for you," which are the five unsexiest words in the English language. I'm looking forward to Elsie Turner's adventures -- the brief bits I've seen on line sound wonderful!

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    1. Love your dad’s instructions! And laughing over the five sexy words. I’ll remember that.

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  7. Hi, Barbara! I know you don't remember me, but I was a backblogger on TLC, lo, these many moons ago. Nice to see you here, and to know you have yet another new book. I've been a fan since your How to Bake a Perfect Life. Nancy Martin just celebrated a birthday, and I was thinking about everyone from those days!

    Can you tell us more about A Thousand Painted Hours? Intriguing title.

    I have traveled alone extensively, mostly in the US, driving through all 48 contiguous states. There have been some dicey moments, but for the most part I have developed a situational awareness that has served me well. A time or two I might have overreacted in my response, but I would rather be alive and whole than foolishly polite.

    Silvering hair and a lumpier physique has indeed endowed me with more invisibility. When I was in Europe on my own ten years ago I amused myself by noticing whether or not I was noticed. Mostly, glances slid right past me. It isn't always true, though. On my first trip to Paris 25 years ago, the oldest woman in our group of eight was targeted for her supposed need to be helped onto the train at CDG, and her purse neatly picked by a man who then stepped off the train as it went to the next terminal. Lesson learned!

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    1. Of course I remember you! I've posted about the book below. And...well, there's a warning to keep in mind, the woman "helped" onto the train! I can see me falling for that.

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  8. When I was 18 I traveled with parents to Germany where a sister’s family were serving in the U.S. Army. I was a brown- haired short girl with glasses so definitely not one to attract masses of attention. But that didn’t stop the young guys from wolf whistling and stopping just short of physically approaching me. I was certainly glad to be in the company of my family.

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  9. Congratulations on the new book Barbara! I too am delighted to be invisible. I did overseas study in Scotland when I was 21 (part of a group of 22 students) and was taking the bus back to my homestay after the pubs closed one night. A group of drunk young men approached me. Between the alcohol and the accent, I couldn't really understand them, but it did NOT feel like a friendly encounter. I was pretty scared. I tried to make sure to get home a little earlier after that.

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    1. Yeah, a group of drunks is never great. Good call.

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  10. I don't really travel much myself so I don't have to worry. I guess the few trips I have taken I guess the only worry would've been the plane crashing. Especially the very first trip I ever took included a puddle jumper flight where we ended up being cleared to land earlier than the expected flight time because something fell off the plane!

    My best friend Ann is doing her World Retirement Tour (though she's currently staying with me for a bit in between Leg 2 and the start of Leg 3). She's been Italy, Brazil, Panama, Costa Rica, Mexico. She is going to Mexico when she first leaves for the start of Leg 2, then she'll be doing a cross-country trip to celebrate Halloween stuff after that. Then she'll be off to Japan for a couple of months, the UK after that and then somewhere warm (location TBD) for the winter.

    She is telling me that she doesn't have any real worries and I tend to believe her because she's THE Ann, intrepid solo traveler who, unlike me, likes to get out and experience life and generally likes most people.

    I suppose the only worry that she's involved is causing people like me to worry when she almost dies in Brazil because of course she has to have a harrowing, yet memorable, story about visiting that country. Though to be fair, she has no intention of ever going there again.

    Meanwhile, it's all I can do to muster up the ambition to travel to a book signing or the comic shop four towns and 30 minutes way. As you can tell, there's no logical reason why Ann and I are friends. But here we are one crazy traveler and one lame ass homebody.

    I settle for traveling by reading books that are set in other countries or like The Doctor, other times. I don't have to put myself out there that much and the budget is way cheaper.

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    1. We all have different paths, and your friend sounds amazing. One of my sisters is very afraid of planes crashing, too, and it's a very common fear. I know it doesn't help to say it is a safe way to travel.

      If you like book travel, maybe you'll enjoy The Last Letter of Rachel Ellsworth, which is about two women of different ages traveling across England, Paris, Morocco, and India.

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  11. I have often said that I think every young woman should have to travel alone a few times, as it builds more confidence and self-awareness than just about anything else. I worked for consulting firms twice in the late 1990s, before and just after turning 40. Those jobs both involved a lot of solo travel, and I really treasure the lessons learned in those years.

    I no longer fear the sexual predators, having reached the age of invisibility to them, but with white hair I am fast approaching the age of being highly visible as a "vulnerable" target for plain old theft. Interestingly, I notice that because of my need for caution when I was young, I am somewhat better than my husband at managing myself and my possessions while traveling in a way that minimizes vulnerability. As a 6' tall sturdy white man, he just never had to worry about it and hasn't yet learned little tricks that are second nature to women, like accessing cash unobtrusively and having it ready before eyes are upon you.

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  12. Sorry, I forgot to include the description of the new book! It is a dual timeline tale of an English artist fighting for her autonomy and her right to choose her path. Here is the official blurb:

    An epic, emotionally charged novel about love, art, and survival spanning 1900s colonial India to Blitz-era London by the USA Today bestselling author of When We Believed in Mermaids.

    In the shadow of the London Blitz, artist Elsie Turner clings fiercely to her canvases, refusing to let war dim the colors that define her. The bombs test her nerve, but the struggle also stirs memories of her golden youth in India and of the long-lost love of her life.

    The daughter of a British civil servant in the Himalayan station of Nainital, Elsie crosses cultural divides to forge an unlikely bond with Tanveer Singh, a Sikh prince with hopes, dreams, and far-reaching ideas. What begins as shared sketchbooks and stargazing becomes first love and a secret correspondence. When Elsie’s father is summoned to England, Elsie is severed from the world she knows—and is determined to preserve it through both her art and a connection with Tanveer that endures through the most tumultuous years of their lives.

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  13. I guess I've never really thought about it. I've been so used to traveling alone for business and later pleasure that I suspect I radiated "don't "F" with me" and no one did. I've been single for more years than I was ever attached to someone and have now also entered the invisibility age. Add an ever encroaching dowager's hump and I'm really not anyone's idea of interesting or target-worthy. Nevertheless, I do make it a point to keep an eye on my surroundings and blend in as well as possible.-- Victoria

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  14. I have never worried about traveling alone. Exercised awareness of my surroundings? Yes. But never been afraid.

    At least not for my safety. Missing a plane connection or getting lost? Totally different story.

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  15. I have had mixed/negative experiences when I was younger that made me grateful for my father (he worked in law-enforcement) putting me in martial arts school/self-defense classes as a kid. I have a vulnerable looking appearance (small/short/petite), so that caused me to stay on guard/cautious, but I have traveled quite a bit on my own, wishing, at times, I could travel more freely, as I assume men feel they can do (like my husband-who is oblivious to the realities of the world). I have also worked in the mental health field for 35 years, which has exposed me to some criminal-type people (in certain jobs). So that didn’t help my over-cautiousness! So I try to walk the line between living my life with as much freedom as I safely feel I can, but also being cautious. Sadly, I know there are some bad actors out there walking amongst us. I used to feel a lot more confident when I used to have big dogs to go on walks with me! 🐕. I think my future solo traveling will be with tour groups. While I am enjoying my relative invisibility cloak, accidents and health issues are in the back of my mind as well as personal safety.

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  16. I do worry. And the other day (aka a few months ago) I was using my subway pass to get through the turnstile when a youngish man rushed up behind me and pushed me through and squeezed himself in behind me. Fare evasion. Not the other thing. Pissed me off, that's for sure. Now I try to remember to PAUSE and look in four directions before engaging my subway pass and pushing through.

    ANYWAY that's the change ... my vulnerability is more to the pickpocket bad-guy. As you get older you look like you've got more cash on you (who else carries cash?) and you're slower on the uptake.

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    1. Wow, since I have no experience with the subway on the east coast, I would have been so freaked out Hallie!!

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  17. I traveled alone once from the California to Paris. It didn't dawn on me to be nervous about strangers, Since I don't speak French, I was more worried about how to get from the plane to the baggage claim to the train, buy a ticket, and find the platform and once on the train into Paris - not to miss my stop and then how to get to the street level, find a cab, communicate (not very well) with him to get to the 17th ere and ended up wondering around til I saw my daughter waving at me from the balcony of the rental! I feel fairly safe in most European countries (even Greece where there are a lot of pick pocketers).

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  18. Hank Phillippi Ryan RyanMay 21, 2026 at 9:27 AM

    Welcome welcome welcome! So wonderful seeing you today! The invisibility power is so fascinating, I agree! I travel so much, and just always wear black and try to look confident. Purposeful. And it helps that my packing is… Compact. I don’t have bags with things hanging out or look disorganized. I think that makes such a difference! Sometimes the sleek packing makes my suitcase very heavy, I have to say But I am happy with a red cap At the train station, or a kind person on the airplane who helps me put my bag over the seat. I help other people, too, it’s so much easier when it’s not your own bag!
    I wonder, too, how often we are actually in places that are dangerous? That’s so interesting.

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  19. I always relish being part of a conversation about invisibility; the story is always universal with those of us who have reached...ahem....a certain age. All of which is mentioned in the above comments. I once read that we "biddies" even fall off the research charts while only still in our 50's (!). Apparently no one cares what happens to us beyond that age group. :-( At one of Hank Phillippi Ryan's book signings I thanked Hank for broaching this subject during her talk. We chatted a bit about what it was like to be a young female in a male-dominated professional world before women started punching through that glass ceiling. We were definitely all on our own when it came to protecting ourselves from unwanted attention; no one was going to come rescue us from the "big bad wolf". So we pursued our own means of handling some sticky situations, some very clever but, alas, not always successful. But our senses were always keen, our antennae in the upright position and we made sure we had another set of eyes in the back of our heads. The only thing I would add to the thoughts already mentioned by others is that invisibility does have its positive side when it comes to sometimes wanting to enjoy our privacy as we go about our everyday business. And not having to worry about unwanted attention except through scams of which we all have to stay on alert. I am also most grateful for having medical professionals in my life who don't equate my care with how I should be treated based on how old I am. I always feel like I am treated with respect, the conversations are thoughtful as well as thorough and the treatment plans are always based on keeping me in the vertical position. :-)

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    1. Hank Phillippi Ryan RyanMay 21, 2026 at 9:38 AM

      Oh Evelyn, I remember that! And so wonderful to see you! And I agree, it is fun to talk about… How we learned to manage it, and now how we are powerful.

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