DEBORAH CROMBIE: I am just home from a three-week stay in London, and I think it was one of the most productive research trips I've ever made. I had enough of Kincaid/James #20 plotted out that I had a very specific agenda, but for all the benefits of Google, it's not virtual reality. Sometimes you just have to get boots (sandals, in this case) on the ground. Halfway through my trip, I'd made it to Eel Pie Island, which I wrote about here. And I did make it back to Twickenham on another day to visit the Eel Pie Island Museum, where I had a lovely, and very personal (thank you, Kate!) tour of the museum's exhibits.
Then it was back to Little Venice and the Regent's Canal for my most challenging bit of research. I knew (spoiler alert!) that I had a body in the canal, and I knew exactly where it was discovered. But even though I'd done the waterbus tour twice, and studied and studied maps and Google Street View, I could NOT figure out how my first responders, police officers, and scene of crime team were going to get to that particular stretch of towpath.
Here's a snippet where Oliver, my fictional waterbus guide, makes a very unpleasant discovery.
The
Maybelle’s prow eased into the watery gray light. At least the rain had
stopped, thought Oliver, but he grimaced at the unsightly gray concrete of the
retaining wall on the right-hand bank and the still, dark green water beneath
it. For some reason, rubbish tipped into the canal tended to collect just
there. He’d seen shopping trolleys and bicycles as well as fast food wrappers
and the ubiquitous water-logged plastic bags.
Now, he
caught a glimpse of something brown, swaying gently just below the surface, and
he hoped to God it wasn’t a dead animal—the customers would be asking for their
fares back. But before he could distract them with the next bit of patter, the
single woman pointed. “Look. What is that? It’s moving.”
“Otter or vole,
I expect,” said Oliver quickly, “but we’d be lucky to see one in day—”
He broke off as
the brown patch bobbed and turned in an eddy from the boat’s wash, revealing
something greyish white, like the underbelly of a fish—but with the distinctive
features of a human face.
One of the
women screamed.
And here is that deserted stretch of the canal at the east end of the Maida Hill Tunnel.
Very atmospheric, isn't it? And on the right, concealed by the bush, is one of the towpath access points. It seems simple enough in retrospect, but finding that took me HOURS of walking--some of it in circles, I later discovered.
But there are always bonuses to this kind of research. Here's one, the moored narrowboat community along one section of the canal.
Including this most charming bathtub! I wondered if they were putting it in or taking it out, or if it was merely decoration...
I also stumbled upon Lord's Cricket Ground in St. John's Wood.
It was only later that I realized Paul McCartney's house in St. John's Wood is just on the other side of the cricket ground. I'd have done the touristy Beatles-fan walk-by if I'd known! Abbey Road Studios are only a short walk away as well--close enough that Paul supposedly turned up in his pajamas and slippers on occasion.
This is a part of London I didn't know at all, and I've loved exploring its nooks and crannies. It will be so much fun to see which bits make it into the book. Maybe one of my characters will wave at Sir Paul as he comes out of his gate!
REDS and readers, what "accidental" but memorable discoveries have you made while traveling?
Never having been to London, I always find your research trip commentaries fascinating, Debs.
ReplyDeleteI enjoyed your story snippet as well; thanks for the glimpse into the new mystery.
Thanks, Joan!
DeleteThis sounds like such a wonderful research trip! I love English place names: Cavendish Avenue, Regent's Canal, St. John's Wood, etc. Thanks for the snippet. It's a gripping scene.
ReplyDeleteMaida Vale is a good one, too.
DeleteWell, and the best (to me) is still Eel Pie Island!
DeleteYour trip is wonderful trip. I've never been to Little Venice / Regent's Canal. Answer to your question: in March I went with several friends to Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. My partner, recently diagnosed with rheumatoid arthritis was doing very well with a walking stick until the trail asked us to climb a ladder. Not a good idea, but the (disappointing) lower loop took us past flowering plants, some of which were healing and some poisonous. I've never written a poison death but, sitting there there scribbling and taking photos, a short story appeared
ReplyDeleteI love it when that happens!!
DeleteDebs, what wonderful discoveries. So glad your trip was more than fruitful.
ReplyDeleteOn my research trip to Santa Barbara a few years ago, we strolled the long historic pier. And ran across a fortune-teller's shop, a free-standing fanciful little building. You can bet a version of it went into my book, whole cloth - along with an ominous prediction for my sleuth!
OMG, Edith, when will that book be in my hands? I can hardly wait!
DeleteYes I can't wait either!
DeleteJudy and Anon, it was NACHO AVERAGE MURDER, which came out in 2020!
Delete(By my alter-ego Maddie Day.)
DeleteWhat fun, Edith. I love it when things like that just drop into your lap.
DeleteUh-oh. Time for a reread!
DeleteI just love that you post photos of your trips to England as you explore locations for your books. Traveling with Gemma, Duncan and friends always feels so genuine when I am reading and I always try to envision where they are with the help of the maps.
ReplyDeleteI had to laugh at your efforts to find the towpath access point. Would other authors be that persistent or just finally make up an access point after schlepping around for an hour in the hot sun? I'm sure that I have searched for a way in...actually...it was the door to a library where I was to introduce the guest speaker one evening. Roaming the parking lot for 15 minutes...someone else introduced her. Not a very good first impression!
Love the snippet. Poor Oliver. But hey, someone has to find the body!
According to my phone, I walked about eight miles that day. I really was determined!
DeleteYour photos are gallery worthy! Really, I love your photos of London and environs.
ReplyDeleteMore are needed!
Oh thank you! That one of the deserted canal was a favorite.
DeleteThis is wonderful Debs--the research and the book! So glad you are making such good progress.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Lucy. Hope it translates to words on page!
DeleteLove your towpath photos and Eel Pie Island.
ReplyDeleteIn answer to your question: Jardin des Plantes in Paris. Our hotel was a fifteen-minute walk away and while we waited to get into our room on touch-down day, we spent three hours in the gardens. Wonderful, serene, not teaming with tourists.
Any restaurant/pub/takeout recommendations for Earls Court area? Thanks.
DeleteMargaret, I'd recommend the Scarsdale Tavern in Edwards Square. I ate there three times on this trip. It's the loveist of pubs, set back on a quiet street.
DeletePS Margaret, it's a good idea to book ahead.
DeleteThanks, it's a favorite of ours, too. Glad it's still there and we will book ahead. My favorite "facilities" are at St Martin-in-the-Fields Church next to Trafalgar Square. They have a buffet restaurant and shops in the crypt, and regular noon-time music concerts in the church. A nice rest stop midday.
DeleteI have taken many a rest stop in St. Martin's Crypt, both to use the facilites and for a much needed cuppa and rest break. I also love to attend Evensong there, but haven't managed that in a few years. We will see much of this part of London in the new book.
DeleteFrom Kim: I echo the other's thanks for your reports on your research trips and for your photos. I enjoy them very much, and they're a great preview for the coming book. I'm with my sister in the Netherlands right now, for fun not research, and I can report a delightful serendipitous travel discovery: Edam. My sister had read that it was a pleasant village, so we took a half an hour bus ride from Amsterdam, and here we are, as I write. It is wonderful. Tall narrow brick houses (some from the 1600s) along tree-lined canals, gorgeous hydrangeas in every garden, little museums, and elaborate church towers. We're so glad to be here!
ReplyDeleteKim, sounds wonderful!
DeleteHi Kim, do they by any chance have good cheese in Edam. LOL!
ReplyDeleteCheese! I almost had an Edam sandwich for lunch (ended up with smoked salmon, which I doubt was Dutch.) We've passed many cheese stores; the cheeses themselves are about the size of a large grapefruit/small cantaloupe. Just what I need in my suitcase!
DeleteKim, what a wonderful trip!
DeleteI love your travel pictures, the snippet from the book and the glimpse into your thought process. How would the responders access the body? Very good question!
ReplyDeleteWhen I was studying in Edinburgh in 1978, I decided to go for a jog. I was living with my host family in the Stockbridge area. I headed north and pretty soon I was in Inverleith Park and the Royal Botanic Garden. I had no idea I would end up there.
More recently, in 2009 I was spending a few days by myself in Yorkshire, so I took a train to Skipton one day and walked around town, visited the castle and had lunch in a pub. I decided to take a short walk and ended up on the path beside the Leeds-Liverpool canal. I ended up walking for an hour and a half. The countryside was so lovely, with old mills, bridges, narrow boats and the rolling Dales around me. I didn't end up anywhere unexpected, but also didn't expect that walk to be one of the highlights of my trip.
Gillian, when I lived in Edinburgh, I used to take the bus to the Royal Botanic Garden and have tea in the cafe. So lovely. And I envy you that walk at Skipton.
DeleteWhat lovely photos, Debs. Glad you found that access path - eventually!
ReplyDeleteI probably should have clarified that the towpath is not continuous, and that most of the canal is not visible from street level. Except for a glimpse from a couple of bridges, you wouldn't realize the canal was there unless you'd taken a boat along it.
DeleteDebs, I love it when you share your research trips with us.
ReplyDeleteThe experience, the photos, the snippet ( and knowing that all that will serve for the next book), you embellished my day. Thank you.
Danielle
Thanks, Danielle!
DeleteBeautiful photos and a gripping excerpt! It's so interesting to see how thoroughly you do your boots-on-the-ground research. Thank you, Debs. And welcome home!
ReplyDeleteThanks, Lorraine! I have about a zillion photos, too. And lots of notes!
DeleteWelcome back Debs from what can only be described as a trip to make me envious. It is along the meandering waterways of Britain that I would love to explore. Those murky canals with all the overhanging greenery are magic to my imagination. I visualize Morse and Lewis running from the towpath onto the waterway. My husband’s uncle and aunt always wanted to live a year on a canalboat and just meander about. Instead, they lived as proprietors in a castle in Scotland, which I am sure would have been just as interesting.
ReplyDeleteI wonder how people live with a boat as their home. As a child, I often wondered what it was like to live on a Chinese junk. Nowadays, I wonder how Hayley and Miss Gloria can live cheek by jowl in Florida. I think I have too much paraphernalia to survive, but the thought of just being able to move on, may be appealing.
Having just spent time with Duncan and Gemma, I look forward to the next installment in a most enjoyable series. I hope Kit learns to make Eel pie!
As for the memorable discovery – it was in Edinburgh. My brother and I were meandering about the park in the middle of the city, and as usual, I need to pee – getting into to the desperate zone. We knew there were no toilets around and it was too far back to the hotel, but had been told that the National Museum was not only open, but free. We booted it across the park, the street and up the stairs to the museum doors. We breezed quickly and probably rudely past the liveried doorman and asked for the bathroom. He pointed us in the right direction, and it was immediately accessed and relief was upon me. Then I looked around. The place was a room and lobby of mahogany, brass and cut glass. Even the cubicles were mahogany polished to a ridiculous gleam. I stood mesmerized at the beauty of it – it was the highlight of my tour to Britain. We went out, apologized to the valet, and then took in some of the museum, which we had not planned to do, and I am sure would take more than one lifetime to visit.
Margo, we shared a table with a couple from London last December on safari in Kenya. They actually live on a narrowboat, a "double-wide" version, and we chatted about it a bit. Sounds like living in a tiny house!
DeleteFrom Celia: Margo, back back in the day when I lived in London with my first job, I had to find housing and got a bed in a retired Oxford College boat. She was moored on the Thames above Battersea Bridge. I shared with three other women, none of whom I knew! I lived there for over two years and other than the loo arrangements it was fun. The River police would come and visit. We held some wild parties and our next door neighbors were a group of navel officers on assignment to the Admirality. I’m just sorry I have no photos from that time.
DeleteWhat a great story, Margo. I am often in the situation myself and while I've found many a pub when desperate for the toilet, I've never ended up in a beautiful museum.
DeleteCelia, I love this! Was the retired Oxford College boat a narrowboat or a houseboat?
DeleteInteresting that you say a pub could be a mode of convenience. The tour driver that on pain of death or something equally as awful, we were never to go into a pub to use the toilet - just not proper. So we didn't, and hence the great experience.
DeleteThe lack of "facilities" in the UK is always an issue, and pubs are the one place you can be certain there will be a toilet.
DeleteYou have whetted my appetite for #20, Debs! Wish I could have followed you around on this trip, it sounds like so much fun.
ReplyDeleteOne of my most memorable ttravel serendipities was on a solo car trip to Miami from Cincy, when my daughter was in graduate school there. I was stopping a couple places to visit friends along the way, but I got a really late start on the first leg of the trip, and decided to stop outside of Chattanooga. I'd never been there before, but I knew my middle daughter had, so I called her and asked if there was anything I should do while I was there for a couple hours. She said I had to have dinner at NorthShore.
It turned out to be a wonderfully charming area, with great shops, lots of good restaurants, and a garden area behind it along the Tennessee River. There is a bluff on the other side of the river, where there are a couple of museums (for another day that has not yet arrived), and a riverboat docked at the edge. Also, my favorite discovery was almost a dozen sets of brass dance steps imbedded in the sidewalks along the main street, including "The Kiss", with a pair of men's shoes flat to the ground, facing one high heel print and one marker that says "lift".
When I got to my second stop, I was excitedly telling my hosts Barb and Bob about the area, forgetting that Bob--a landscape gardener--had once lived in Chattanooga for several decades. It turned out that the brass dance steps were his idea, part of his firm's makeover of the riverside garden and the landscaping of the main street. He was delighted that I was so taken with them.
Karen, how cool!
DeleteDebs, I love your stories and I love your photos, too. Can't wait to read this book! And yes, I love to wander on a trip, as you do, and never travel by tour if I can avoid it. Not enough room for surprises that way. London is the perfect place for wandering; there is always a surprise or two. I didn't know Paddington Station had a whole shop dedicated to Paddington Bear, and "clink" for "jail" came from a real jail. ON Clink Street! Until I walked right past it in Southwark. So here is one of my best: I was on a walk in the Strand area, which I had never explored, and in the middle of lots of office buildings I spotted a tiny, wooden house that turned out to be the original Twining tea house! One of the few (only?) remaining wooden buildings in central London, and now the Twinings visitor center. Lifelong tea drinker, I loved it. And I found St. Clement Danes Church. Yes, the nursery rhyme ( Maybe) Very old, destroyed in the Blitz, rebuilt and dedicated to the Royal Air Force. Full of memorials that will break any heart.
DeleteOh, I know the Twinings Tea House, Triss! Isn't it wonderful? And Clink Street! But I don't know St. Clement Danes Church and now it will be on my radar.
DeleteFor lovers of London, I highly recommend Christopher Fowler's Bryant & May: Peculiar London. It is chock full of fascinating historical and geographical tidbits. I have it in hardcover but I see it's now out in paperback.
Love the dance steps, Karen! What a charming discovery.
DeleteLove the photos--so evocative! And your process explains a lot about the appeal of your books--you have specific goals in mind, yet remain open to and embrace the serendipitous finds, spontaneous happenings and discoveries. You layer these so beautifully throughout the plot, weave them around your characters (old favorites and new). I've said this before--when I read a Duncan and Gemma book, I feel I am 'there'. And I'm slightly disoriented when I surface and am not 'there.' :-)
ReplyDeleteI suppose I could have just had my responders magically appear on the canal towpath, and have the body magically removed afterwards, but things like that really bother me. I have to be able to imagine myself into the experience. I could even say I'm a little bit obsessive!
DeleteLove the photos and the snippet, Debs! Look forward to reading the next Duncan/Kincaid mystery!
ReplyDeleteAnd I remember walking around London. I was at Peter Jones when I met a salesperson who was very excited about getting her first cochlear implant through NHS. And her name was Maisie! I had just read the first Maisie Dobbs novel, which launched that year.
Memorable travel experience....I have so many...how do I pick an experience?
Diana
I love Peter Jones, Diana. It's my department store of choice when in London. I had my makeup done there before last October's photo shoot. (Also where Gemma finds her wedding dress!)
DeleteFrom Celia: thanks so much for the great photos Debs. I do wish to had taken a holiday on a narrow boat. Lots of other sailing but not that. Unexpected encounters? This came immediately to mind - Paley Park just off 5th Avenue in Manhattan. I think a friend took me there not too long after I arrived in the USA. A wonderful spot to hang out in when it was hot in the city. A tiny sliver of an open space tucked between two buildings on a side street with chairs and tables but the back wall was a waterfall. A cascade of cool water pouring down endlessly. One could sit on the rim on a hot day and feel a cool spray. I loved Paley Park and I hope it hasn’t been built over now. Victor lived in Maida Vale when I first met him but I think that was before Sir Paul moved in almost next door.
ReplyDeleteSir Paul bought the Cavendish Avenue house in 1965, Celia, for 40,000 pounds, a lot of money in 1965! A neighboring place sold a couple of years ago for 17 million (pounds.)
DeleteEngland is on my must-see list. Thanks for the pictures, they really encourage me. So excited for the new book!
ReplyDeleteI hope you get there. There is so much to see!
DeleteLOVED reading about this! The details are priceless. And now I'll flashback to this when I read it in the new book... I took many walks around Beaufort SC for YOU'LL NEVER KNOW, DEAR and oh my goodness the details you pick up. Always carrying a notebook or my cell phone to take notes and photos. Because the brain, she is like a sieve these days.
ReplyDeleteOn my first trip to Europe, I went to Keukenhof, which is a bulb park just outside of Amsterdam. I
ReplyDeletefound out there was going to be a parade the following week to celebrate the Queen’s birthday.
The parade consisted of floats similar to the rose parade here on New Year’s day except it used
bulb flowers. I wasn’t going to be around for it but I did go to the warehouse where the floats were
being built and saw up close how intricate the designs were.
What a fascinating visit!
DeleteOh wow! Keukenhof itself is beyond belief, that extra layer would be amazing!
DeleteThe photos and stories from your research trip will be a wonderful enhancement while reading the book. Thanks for sharing the vivid snippet from your upcoming book!
ReplyDeleteMargo, I chuckled at your story about needing and finding lavish facilities in Edinburgh. My saving grace was a random port-a-potty on a side street in Rome that appeared out of nowhere just when I needed it most.
I call that divine intervention, Brenda!
DeleteIt certainly seemed that way to me!
DeleteIf you take a research trip to Newcastle-Upon-Tyne sign me up to go as your assistant note taker! My ancestors came from there and I want to get there someday.
What fabulous details! Now I have to plan another trip to the UK - London, here I come.
ReplyDeleteAlways happy to be your virtual tour guide, Kate!
DeleteI love this, Debs! I am so excited to join Gemma and Duncan on this case. Woo hoo!
ReplyDeleteYou would love this part of London, Jenn.
DeleteJust fascinating, Debs! I love reading about the canals and the narrowboats, all thanks to an earlier book of yours. You mention St. John's Wood, which has been in my mind ever since it was mentioned in a Rolling Stones song. I think. It will come to me later; right now parts of it are in my head.
ReplyDeleteI did once have an interesting adventure on a trip to CA. My friend and I were at Dana Point and there was an old-looking boat. It was a replica of the Pilgrim, which carried the man who wrote Two Years Before the Mast after serving as a sailor on the brig, early 1880s. (I have tried reading the book and just couldn't get through it.) At the time I didn't know anything about either the man or the ship but we saw people on board and thought we might as well join.
The people onboard were very well-dressed and cordial. It appeared to be some kind of cocktail party and as we quickly learned, not open to the public. However, one kind gentleman thought we at least deserved a glass of wine, which we did not refuse! (The wine was not all that good, which might be why it was readily offered to us.)
Just now while checking my facts about the Pilgrim replica I learned that it sank a few years ago, which saddened me, but at least I have pictures and my memories.
Can't wait to read your book! When it is published will we also be able to see a collection of your pictures from the various places? On your website, perhaps?
It just came to me - that Rolling Stones song. Play With Fire. "Your mother she's an heiress, owns a home in St. John's Wood." Something like that, anyway.
Now have to look this one up, Judi!
DeleteDebs, I'll join Jenn in saying I'm so excited for the new book! I love the fact that we get to discover new parts of London along with you in each novel. If you ever decide to retire, I think you have a second career as a Certified London Guide waiting for you!
ReplyDeleteMy feet hurt just thinking about it!
DeleteTwo museums I had never heard of before I went there are in San Antonio TX.
ReplyDeleteThe first is a circus museum which has a lot of circus history and memorabilia such as advertisement posters, dioramas and even Tom Thumb’s violin.
The second is the McNay Art Museum which had been the home of Marion Koogler McNay, a Texas heiress and art collector who bequeathed her estate and collection to the city of San Antonio.
It is a wonderful collection which includes works of artists such as Rodin, Picasso and Cezanne
I probably enjoyed this museum as much as any of the more traditional places I have been to because it is in the home she lived in and the Spanish architecture provides a more intimate feel to it. There are also extensive landscaped grounds to walk around.
of
I didn't know about these San Antonio museums. What a wonderful find.
DeleteNarrowboats! My interest started with Duncan and Gemma in Chester for Christmas.
ReplyDeleteMine, too!
DeleteThe hours I’ve spent on Google trying to see if hiking paths link up! You’re right, the boots on the ground view is the only way to tell sometimes.
ReplyDeleteWe wandered into a pub in Edinburgh, the Cafe Royal, and were surprised by the tile portraits of Scottish engineers and inventors (Fulton, Watt, etc). My aerospace engineer husband and civil engineer self were delighted to be in a place that venerated engineers!
Lisa, I imagine it was very much like trying to link up hiking paths. And, yes, Edinburgh is definitely the city for engineers.
DeleteIt's so exciting to read the excerpt, Debs! I'm thrilled to know Kincaid/James #20 is in the works. Your books always convey a strong sense of place, which I believe is a combination of your self-described obsessive research and a kind of spiritual alchemy. Since most of your readers, including me, are unlikely to physically visit some of the sites you describe, particularly that portion of the canal, you *could* wing it and we wouldn't know the difference. But you don't. Somehow that makes your stories more authentic and compelling. ~Lynda
ReplyDeleteThank you, Lynda!
DeleteThis is my first comment - I’m really enjoying getting to know all of you authors. Deb, I love Duncan and Gemma and cannot wait for your next book! One of the things that makes your books enjoyable to me is the incredibly strong sense of place you are able to conjure up. I love being able to “see” your settings so clearly. And of course your characters are so well developed that I feel like dear friends. Thank you for these lovely pictures of your trip to London; I’m fascinated by the canals, which I knew nothing about before your books. I’m a fan!
ReplyDeleteThanks so much for commenting, Melinda. We all love to hear from readers!
ReplyDeleteHighly interesting to hear about the process of writing. But I have to ask, are voles in England completely different from the ones in America? Here, voles are small mouse-like mammals that couldn't possibly be compared to an otter.
ReplyDelete