Charcoal or Gas--That is the Question

DEBORAH CROMBIE: We are creeping towards the middle of July. Can you believe it??? (Why do summers go so fast?) And we all know what that means--whether you are north or south or in between--it's time to grill!  But the big question is, do you go with charcoal (you purists!) or gas?

Back just before Memorial Day there was a piece in the New York Times asking well-known chefs to weigh in.  The upshot was that while most things taste better cooked over charcoal, nothing beats gas for quick and easy week night dinners. This got me thinking (a dangerous thing, admittedly.) We got a new gas grill in the spring, plumbed in with natural gas, no less, so no more worrying about running out of propane in the middle of your gourmet cookout. But we'd kept our old Weber kettle grill, which hadn't been used in about fifteen years. The inserts were rusted, but otherwise it was fine. Maybe it was time to give charcoal a try again.

I ordered a new top rack (fab, it even has flaps that lift up so you can add charcoal) bought some good hardwood charcoal, and we were ready to rock.

On the 4th we resurrected the old grill. Moroccan chicken skewers (recipe from Milk Street magazine,) with corn, and grilled heads of romaine. Everything was divine. The chicken had a perfect crispy crust but was meltingly tender on the inside.

Here's the finished plate.

Then, on Saturday, we cooked steaks. And, honestly, much to my disappointment, I think they would have been better on the gas grill.

So I find myself firmly in the either/or and whatever is most convenient camp. REDS, what do you think?

JENN MCKINLAY: Hub does all the grilling and while we've had both types of grills over the years, his fave is the charcoal on his Weber. He also has a smoker and smokes our Thanksgiving turkey every year which I love because my oven is available for all my sides! Tonight he made steak kabobs with pineapple chunks and red pepper - Yum! I imagine I could learn to use the grill and be more of a helper but...no. I'm going to let this be his area of expertise.

HANK PHILLIPPI RYAN: Never gas. Never. We love our Weber, and use it all the time--with a chimney just like that! Food is a thousand times better on it, and Jonathan is a champ at it. SO DELICIOUS. This weekend we made pepper scallops on the grill, which came off with those lovely cross-hatches, and I made lemon-caper sauce and totally yummy. I zap vegetables for two minutes in the microwave, then finish on the grill . Salmon on the grill is perfection.  Rack of lamb on the Weber! Coat with special sauce (I can tell you if you want) five minutes grilled, then turn over for five, then cover for five at the most. Ah. Bliss. And you can have the other half the next night with a Greek salad.

What I don't understand about gas is that it doesn't change the taste of the food to that lovely charcoal-y taste..so why bother? Seriously, I am asking.

Also--I cut peaches in half and grill, then top with bleu cheese. And let is sit on the grill with the top on for 30 seconds to warm the cheese. Ah.

And yes, I know the yummy charcoal crust is bad for you.

HALLIE EPHRON: I'm with Hank. Charcoal or bust. Weber grill with an electric starter. Among my favorite things to make on it are a whole turkey. Best with smallish bird, 11- or 12-pounder.

Start a generous amount of coals, get them hot and push them to the sides and set a drip pan underneath the center beneath where you set the turkey (I season the turkey with coarse salt and pepper and paprika and melted butter). Close the lid making sure the vents below and above are about 1/3 open. Check it every 30 minutes or so, baste it if you think of it. Add more coals if needed. If it seems to be getting too dark tent a little aluminum foil over the top (I never do this... I like a really bronzed bird.)

When a meat thermometer says it's done, it's done. Usually about 2 1/2 hours. It goes faster than you think it will. DELICIOUS hot , warm, or cold. The whole bird gets a smoky flavor. The skin is scrumptious. I like to serve it with a cold wild rice and mushroom and parsley salad tossed with a balsamic vinagrette spiked with a bit of grey poupon. Great for a party because you can do it all in advance and guests will rave.

INGRID THOFT: Okay, brace yourselves: Gas.  Always gas.  When I was growing up, we used charcoal, but as an adult, I’ve always used gas.  We live in a high-rise in downtown Seattle, so at the moment, we don’t have our own grill.  There are grills on the rooftop deck on the 39^th floor, but I’ll admit, we don’t give them much use.  However, one of my favorite things from the (gas) grill is my husband’s steak tips.  They are famous in our family and always a highlight of the family reunion.  Despite my loyalty to gas, I would happily sample Hallie’s chicken or Hank’s peaches with blue cheese, but that might be dangerous.  You might convert me back to charcoal!

 DEBS: Hallie, I am going to try your turkey! And, Hank, the lamb! The scallops! But best of all, the peaches with blue cheese. (And I have peaches from the Saturday market to try.)

 As for your question, Hank, you can get lovely cross hatches on the gas grill, too, and things still have that grilled taste. And you can even get these cool gadgets that let you add soaked wood chips for a really smoky flavor.

But nothing beats looking at those gorgeous glowing coals. 

(But I have two commandments for the charcoal grill. 1) NO LIGHTER FLUID The fumes from our neighbors nearly knock us out every time they fire up the grill, and I can't imagine eating lighter fluid fume-soaked food. 2) NO faux briquettes. What on earth do they put in those things? If you want to get good coals with hardwood charcoal, you use one of these cool chimneys to start your coals. Or Hallie's electric starter.) 

READERS, what do you think? Charcoal or gas? And if you've got a favorite recipe for either, share it with us.

PS Hank, yes, the rack of lamb sauce recipe, please!