Sunday, March 19, 2023

A Vegan Feast by Celia Wakefield

JULIA SPENCER-FLEMING: Our own Celia Wakefield has always been interested in expanding her culinary horizons - in the times I've had the pleasure of pulling up a chair to her table I've been treated to every variety of cooking style and dishes from every continent except, perhaps, Antarctica. This past week, while my college roommate was visiting, we were both guests to an amazing vegan dinner - inspired, as you will see, by another stalwart Reds reader. The evening began with homemade hoummus with herbs, followed by Tikal Gomen (Ethiopian cabbage and potato stew) and naan, and polished off with lighter-than-air vegan meringues. We also polished off two bottles of very nice Prosecco - thank goodness sparking wine is also vegan!

I liked the meal so much that when Guest Son and Youngest came to visit on Thursday, I cooked the Tikal Gomen for them as well, so I can assure you it's a simple dish that comes together quickly and was well received by both the vegan and meat eaters at my house!

 

 


Good morning JRW’s and reading community, - thank you so much Julia for your trust in my cooking to the extent that you feed your family from my recipes and writing too. It is such fun thinking up new food ideas for the blog.

 

What’s cooking for March? Well we are not only snowed up this morning but also without internet service. Yes, only my phone line to the outside world as nothing else will respond; no emails, no browser, no TV, no Facebook and more. At least I have plenty of books to read uploaded on my Kindle app. But even without the internet I can write. Let’s talk about vegan cooking. 

 

Back in February I was emailing with Amanda Le Rougetel who told me that she was looking into and doing some vegan cooking. She also mentioned she wanted to expand her spices beyond her experience with chili. I agreed, chili and I do not mix well. However there are so many other spices available. Even the most remote person can have spices mailed to them and one site Diaspora Co. is both growing, harvesting and importing spices. Sana, the owner writes so enthusiastically painting delightful tiny pictures of Asian life in Oakland, Ca.


You might ask why vegan? Well it seems that vegan is being talked about world wide. I learned about Nicola Kagoro, the founder of Dinners with Chef Cola, from NPR. She “is breaking ground in Harare, Zimbabwe, as one of the first black female vegan chefs. Her monthly dinners bring guests together for an intimate, culinary adventure, with entertainment and a chance to connect over food, culture and more.” 

 

More and more people are realizing that the meat and potatoes they were raised on is not such a good choice for their health, the environment, climate change etc. I have been moving toward a more vegetarian life stye for several years now so vegan is just my attempt to broaden my knowledge. But while I try to keep meat, and particularly processed cuts (so delicious), to a minimum in the fridge, we are not really vegetarians. I had to learn the how of vegetarian cooking.

 

Of course the Great British Baking Open was probably where I first saw vegan baking. Here were the top amateur bakers in the UK turning out delicious bakes without blinking. I’m still not sure whether Paul Hollywood really enjoyed the vegan bakes but he is a trouper. It seems everyone is trying to put a little vegan into their meal plan. While I try to keep meat, and particularly processed cuts (so delicious), to a minimum in the fridge, we are not really vegetarians. I had to learn the how of vegetarian cooking and remember my first real experience: 

 

 

 

When my parents retired they settled in Cornwall in a tiny cottage but the kitchen was a decent size. After a life of tropical living with servants my Mum's cooking skills were quite basic so she joined the local Women’s Institute, a backbone of rural life skills in England and worked on her cooking. However when I came home I was still the designated chef. Once a crisis phone call from my father brought tiny Olivia and me back home as my brother had been in a bad car accident and was now in Cornwall too, recuperating. My mum greeted me with, “Thank goodness you’re here, Andrew is currently a vegetarian and I don’t know what to feed him!” I think quiche Lorraine saved the day. 

 

However with vegan there are no eggs, no cream, no cheese and I won’t even mention the "b word." So what I decided to look at was not a vegan lifestyle balancing proteins, carbs and other nutrients but how easy it might be to put together a vegan menu, and most important, would this be something I wanted to fit into our menu at home.  


My go to market for this exercise was Trader Joes and the key was aquafaba. I first heard of aquafaba watching Vegan Week on GBBS. Bakers were creating fantastic desserts using this liquid found in a can of garbanzos. There on TJ’s was the recipe for coffee or matcha meringues so with only four ingredients and my big mixer I was off and running. 


Supplies:

Stand mixer with whisk

2 cookie sheets lined with parchment

Piping tube, or ziplock bag with cut corner, or metal tea spoon


Ingredients:

  • 1/4 Cup Aquafaba from 1 can of garbanzo beans

  • 1/4 Cup Cane sugar

  • 1/4 tsp lemon juice

  • 1/2 tsp vanilla bourbon extract

  • 1/4 tsp TJ’s 100% Colombian Instant Coffee, plus more for dusting


Preheat oven to 200°F. 

Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper.


Method:

  • Strain 1/4 cup liquid from garbanzo beans into a measuring cup

  • Add all measured ingredients to the bowl of a stand mixer. On medium power, whisk for one minute until aquafaba becomes foamy. Scrape round the bowl with a spatula to ensure all ingredients are fully incorporated. 

  • Increase the speed to high and whisk until stiff, glossy peaks form, 10 to 15 minutes. Turn off briefly to scrape down the side of the bowl.

  • Once the meringue is stiff and glossy  fill a pastry bag fitted with a piping tip with meringue (or a one-gallon plastic zip-top bag with a corner cut off), and pipe onto the prepared baking sheet. Alternatively, drop mounds of meringue batter using a spoon.

  • Very lightly dust meringues with extra instant coffee, using a fine mesh strainer. Do not over-dust, or meringues may collapse.

  • Bake in oven for two hours without opening the oven door. Remove from oven and let meringues cool completely before serving. Do not place meringues in refrigerator at any point; store meringues in an air-tight container if not serving immediately upon cooling.

 

I had a can of garbanzos left, to make make hummus. While there are many types of delicious hummus available, nothing costs less than using the beans for a starter and the bean liquid for dessert.


Hummus:


Put the garbanzos together with what liquid is left in the can Into the food processor.

 

Add about 1/2C Tahini and several cloves of garlic. 

 

Usually I have roasted garlic on hand but not today so here is a new hack. I put 5 cloves in a small Pryex bowl, added 1-2 Tbsp olive oil and covered the bowl. Microwave for a minute and test doneness. Add another 30 seconds if necessary, peel skins off and add to FP with olive oil. Process and taste. Maybe some salt, more Tahini, a little water to thin? Get the consistency to your preference. 

 

I like to add herbs so my version added has mint and parsley. Process again and scrape into a bowl. I served this with a TJ’s black bean / quinoa chip which was great.


For the main course, I chose Tikil Gomen (Cabbage) which I found in an article in the NYT about where professionals go on Sundays. They mentioned an Abyssinian Ethiopian restaurant in Harlem where the person loved their veggie stew. As I had a large half cabbage in the fridge Tikil Gomen turned out to be the answer to using it up. Tikil Gomen was quick and simple to make and as the guests arrival time was unknown it could be made earlier and kept warm.  


As there is quite a lot of chopping, I used my Cuisinart knife blade in the food processor with most successful results. I also increased the quantity of seasonings to taste but please note, no chili! 


I served Tikil Gomen (Cabbage) with Naan and with Patak Major Grey mango and brinjal chutneys which gave it a little flavor boost. This amount of veggies would serve 4-6 depending on what else is offered.


 

 

Ingredients

  • 4 medium carrots cut into thin sticks

  • 1 large onion thinly sliced

  • 1/3 cup olive oil extra virgin

  • 2 cloves garlic minced

  • 1/2 teaspoon ginger minced

  • 1 head cabbage shredded

  • 4 large potatoes Yukon gold, diced

  • 1 teaspoon cumin

  • 1/2 teaspoon turmeric

  • 1 teaspoon salt

  • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper


 

 

Instructions:


  • In a dutch oven/casserole, sauté carrots and onion in olive oil over medium heat for 3 minutes. 

  • Add garlic and ginger and simmer for 2 more minutes or until the vegetables are just softened.

  • Stir in cumin, turmeric, salt, and pepper. Cook for 30 seconds. Then, mix in the cabbage.

  • Continue cooking for another 15 minutes, stirring regularly. NOTE: If the cabbage starts to stick, add a little water and reduce heat.

  • Add the potatoes and cover. Reduce heat to medium-low. Continue cooking until potatoes are soft, which may take another 30 minutes or so. Stir periodically to prevent sticking.

  • Once the potatoes are soft, this dish is ready to eat.


I can see adding other veggies such as jams or squash to the mix. We are surprised as to how filling this was. 

33 comments:

  1. This sounds delicious, Celia . . . thanks for the recipes.

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    1. From Celia: You’re always most welcome Joan. I plan to try your rice pudding recipe with a coconut creamer base rather than milk. I just ran out of time last week.

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    3. I'd be interested to know how that comes out, Celia . . . .
      Now, I am experimenting with a Nilla Vanilla wafers cake recipe . . . .

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  2. Thank you so much for these recipes, Celia. I'll have to try that chickpea liquid trick!

    At my son's recent wedding events, almost all the food was vegan and it was simply vegetarian. Everything was so delicious. I'm not inclined to give up cheese and milk myself, but I've had vegetarian tendencies for a very long time.

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    1. (certainly, not simply - some of the dishes weren't simple at all, and all featured fabulous fresh ingredients)

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    2. From Celia: Thank you Edith, I am completely with you on cheese etc. The food at the wedding sounds wonderful and I’m guessing that there is plenty farm to table produce in PR year round which really does help. So many great memories for you all.

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  3. Hello, Celia, and thanks very much for these recipes. I love hummus and make it often; yours sounds delicious. I put lemon juice and chives in mine, but you've inspired me to try mint. As for the Tikil Gomen, I'm delighted to have a new, filling, vegan recipe to try, and this sounds very good. My husband and I continue to enjoy and eat meat, but, like so many of us, we're trying to eat vegetarian or vegan main courses more often. Thanks for the tip!

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    1. From Celia: Thanks Kim, do let me know if you try the veggie mix. It does need extra spicing as Julia found out. Lemon in hummus always works.

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  4. Oh, Celia, what a lovely surprise to be mentioned in your column today! You certainly inspired me during our email exchange and the resulting tofu curry with coconut milk was delicious. Since then, I've cleared out my old dead spices and am gearing up to stock up with new ones, using your advice and also Chetna Makan's list of must-have Indian spices. She is a GBBO alum and shares recipes on YouTube; her latest is all about spices (https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=h_3mO7YkR00&fbclid=IwAR1FRoKtGc7vN7ajm8uC0YhQg9eFWgkShCbItDWz30YfD_DwdWb1ObaZSmI). Happy Sunday, all!

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  5. From Celia: it’s a pleasure Amanda, still not sure about tofu but the curry sounded delicious. I’ll take a look at your vid.

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  6. I do a bit of vegan and more vegetarian cooking these days. Also fish frequents our menu. Elly Krieger is my go to for interesting recipes. Check out her chick pea and farro stew. It’s a regular rotation here

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    1. Nora Ephron’s favorite cabbage strudel recipe is replicated in today’s NYT magazine. Vegan if you substitute something for the sour cream and butter

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  7. This all looks wonderful! I may have to make some humus today. Yum.

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    1. From Celia:Thanks Kait, I finished the hummus last night, I may need to make more too.

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  8. Celia, thanks so much for the recipes this morning. I make a lot of vegetarian and vegan soups. Because I avoid using garlic which disagrees with me in a particularly ugly way (although a small amount is not a big problem), I have a little harder time flavoring some vegetarian dishes. We do use lots of spices, including chili;>D

    I enjoy trying new spice combinations and love the ideas that are sparked here when we discuss food. With Passover on the way, I am always looking for ideas to get us through the holiday in a respectful but not entirely traditional way. The vegetable stew sounds like something I can work with.

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    1. From Celia: You're most welcome Judy, and I hear your concerns about Passover, may I wish you a blessed one? But while tradition is such a good road map for thoughtful living, I'm sure that substitutions can be made. In fact I just looked up the Passover seder plate. Do you bake your own matzah? Perhaps you will find some new spices on the Diaspora website? One that I love is cardamom.

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  9. Everything looks delicious, Celia! I once tried making hummus for my son, who has been vegan for many years. I must have had a poor recipe because it did not turn out well. Or maybe the ingredients from the supermarket were stale or something.
    But I can almost smell your cabbage stew from here - better make my own soon. I'm thinking it probably tastes even better the next day, am I right?

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    1. From Celia: Thanks so much Judi, I am sorry about the hummus. I used to make a real mess with a recipe which wasn't so good. I think the key is a food processor. I'm not sure that one could make it successfully in a blender even. Try it again, it's wonderful with good tortilla or black bean chips.

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  10. Celia, it all sounds delicious! Thank you for another wonderful meal idea, and for the cooking lesson.

    Somewhere I have a recipe for a flour less chocolate cake made with chickpeas. But I think it uses at least one egg. Until I told my family what it was made of they had no idea. Oddly enough, I was just reading a recipe using aquafaba yesterday.

    When I woke up this morning I was thinking about how to use up the food we bought while staying at my daughter's friend's home while Robin recovers from knee surgery. She isn't quite vegan, but close. There's a large amount of kale and cabbage salad that I was thinking would make for a shakshuka type dish with eggs. We have a patchily stocked kitchen here, but there are plenty of basic ingredients like spices. Your recipe gives me some ideas, so thanks again!

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    1. From Celia: Thank you Karen, and you are most welcome. I hope the knee recovery is going well. One thing that I do with Kale and other greens - chop an onion and sauté with Olive oil, chop roughly the green veggies and add. Doesn't matter if they are overwhelming the pan as they cook down quickly. You can add seasoning or wait till later. When cooked down, I chop in the FP and put into jars or dishes for freezing. This forms a base for many veggie soups, pasta sauces and I have even frozen it in ice cube trays for seasoning. Hope this helps.

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  11. Thanks, Celia! I've been trying to find vegetarian/vegan recipes that we find filling--the stew sounds like something I can try. The meringues look good--but no coffee-flavors for me! I'll have to come up with some other flavor(s) to try.

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  12. Hank Phillippi RyanMarch 19, 2023 at 11:27 AM

    Delicious-sounding food aside, you are such a delightful writer! I absolutely hear your voice in every one of these columns, and so look forward to them….Thank you so much!

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    1. From Celia: Dear Hank, you are so encouraging, thank you.

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  13. Oh, I have a note about the vegan meringues - they actually keep MUCH better than the traditional version. Celia sent me and my friend home with several in a container last Monday evening, and I had ONE left this morning. I ate it (for scientific purposes, of course.) Despite being in a not-too-tightly closed plastic storage box, it was still light and crispy. Although it requires extra steps the egg-based meringue doesn't, the vegan recipe might be the one to use if you want to make a fancy dessert well ahead of time.

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    1. Excellent! Thanks for the additional info, Julia.

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  14. Celia, I want to go to your house for dinner!
    DebRo

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  15. From Celia: And I would love to have you visit Deb. We are in Maine and you can always reach me via Facebook or Julia. Hopefully I may meet some of you at NE Crime Bake this Fall. That's my plan!

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  16. Celia, it's always such a treat to have you here. I love your stories as much as your recipes! We are eating less and less meat, and quite a few vegan meals so I'm always happy for new recipes to try. Love homemade hummus, too, so will try your recipe. I'm going to check out spice vendor suggestions, too. I love Indian spices and cabbage and potatoes is a hard combination to beat!

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    1. From Celia: Oh Debs it’s such a joy to do this for everyone. I really hope I get some feedback beyond the blog.

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  17. Thank you so much, Julia and Celia! We've wanted to add a few vegan dishes to our diet. These sound delish!

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    1. From Celia: Thank you so much Valerie. I do hope these will become part of your menus.

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