Showing posts with label Joy of Cooking. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Joy of Cooking. Show all posts

Friday, July 28, 2023

Hallie looks back at Chicken Marengo

HALLIE EPHRON: Decades ago, when I was newly married and inviting friends to dinner, in the days before you could search the Internet for recipes, my go-to cookbook was The Joy of Cooking, and my go-to dish was Chicken Marengo. (Chicken with wine, tomatoes, mushrooms, onions, and olives.) It's nearly impossible to screw up. And the Joy's recipe format (short, clear) is super accessible.

You can see from the stains on the page how many times I must have made it.

Then I got fancier with Julia Childs’s coq au vin (begin by rendering pork fat… and making my first acquaintance with shallots instead of onions).

On to Julia’s bouillabaisse (hello saffron threads), Michael Fields grilled butterflied leg of lamb with Greek lemon sauce (has to be marinated overnight), and on to the sublime New York Times lobster bisque.

All the while I have not been able to master the simplest things -- like fried chicken, and consistently crisp bacon, and brownies, and pie crust. Bread I've barely attempted. I'm sure it's because I had no one to watch in the kitchen (my mother didn't cook)... there are certain things you just can't get out of a book.

In your "salad days" did you have any go-to recipes for company, and how were you with the supposedly more straightforward stuff.

Sunday, November 1, 2020

Fall is apple pie time

HALLIE EPHRON: Fall in New England is apple time and it's time to make pie!
I used to be a purist, making my pie with Cortland apples picked at a local orchard. Sadly by the time a Cortland makes it way to a supermarket it tastes... blah, to use the technical term. Mealy-ish. So not the same beast as what you pluck from the tree.
So these days I buy the most dependable of varieties: Granny Smiths. Never mind that they usually come from halfway around the world, they're invariably hard and crisp and tart and perfect for pie making.

My apple pie recipe, however, is the same as always. It comes from my ancient (it was my mother's) Joy of Cooking, and you can see how time has worn its pages. (The receipt I use as a place mark is dated 2003.)

I follow the recipe, using half white and have light brown sugar. I do not add lemon or lemon zest because Granny Smiths pack plenty of tart tastiness. 

 

Invariably I forget to add the recipe's butter, but no one seems to notice. My crust, which once would have been made from scratch and later from a mix, now comes rolled and ready from the refrigerated section of the market. Easy peasy and close enough to the real thing. I sprinkle a ton of cinnamon sugar over the top before I bake it. ESSENTIAL!

I like to serve it warm with... nothing. Vanilla ice cream maybe if whoever's at the table requests it. But since it's just me and Jerry at the table now and for the foreseeable future, naked pie. Warmed a bit. Served on a plate with a fork.

Do you make apple pie? Crust from scratch or mix or ready to roll? Same recipe forever or... maybe you have somewhere, a great bakery that does it for you? Happy apple pie!

(Guess what we're having for breakfast!)

Friday, December 20, 2013

Keeper cookbooks in the age of the Google cooking school?

HALLIE EPHRON: A few weeks ago, I opened the cabinet where I keep my cookbooks and several of them fell out on my head -- nature's tactful way of telling me I had too many crammed in there. 

And why am I keeping them, anyway, because most recipes I need are out on the Internet along with endlessly entertaining reader reviews (about how this person left out the salt or sugar or cilantro, that person substituted kale for onions, or used organic almond milk instead of cream, and it came out great.)

I decided it was time to cull. These are some of what I kept, and you can see from their battered state they have been well used, their pages spattered and margins scribbled in:

  • The Joy of Cooking (so well used that half of the index is missing and I had to re-cover it)
  • Three cookbooks by Michael Fields, including The Michael Fields Cooking school which has a grilled, butterflied leg of lamb with egg lemon sauce to die for
  • Several of Mollie Katzen's, including Moosewoods and Enchanted Broccolli Forest
  • My mother's 2-volume massive set of Gourmet Cookbooks, not because I use them but because they were hers
  • Several New York Times cookbooks by Craig Claiborne
  • Marcella Hazan's Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking
  • My booklet of Bisquick recipes that I sent away for in '75

I lugged two big bags of cookbooks to the library, and then posted the question to Facebook: What are your keeper cookbooks? Among the 70+ comments, here titles that rose to the top...

  • #1: The Joy of Cooking (some mentioned the 70s edition specifically)
  • Runner up: The Betty Crocker Cookbook ("that my mother/grandmother gave me when I was 18"... )
  • Assorted cookbooks by Julia Child, especially Mastering the Art and Baking with Julia
  • Assorted New York Times cookbooks by Craig Claiborne
  • Fanny Farmer, of course
  • Better Homes and Gardens ("with the red plaid cover," "for the chili, old-time beef stew, and shortbread cookie recipes")
  • The Good Housekeeping Cookbook
  • The Silver Palate
  • Jeff Smith's The Frugal Gourmet
  • Barefoot Contessa/Ina Garten cookbooks
  • Nigella Lawson cookbooks

  • Cooks Illustrated
Commenters mentioned more than 50 other books. Here are just a few that tickled me:
  • The Mystery Chef's Own Cookbook
  • Old West Baking Book by Lon Walters, 1996 ("interesting comments on chuck wagon cooking")
  • The Star Wars Cook Books I & II ("simple recipes with a new twist, great for getting boys to help with cooking")
  • New Karo [syrup] All American Cook Book," "The Special Collection" featuring Post cereal
  • Weight Watchers
  • The Hungry Girl cookbooks
  • The Elvis cookbook "Are You Hungry Tonight?"
  • The LooneySpoon Collection by Janet and Greta Podleski

Plus a there were some priceless comments from authors (including Lucy Burdette saying she's not giving up a single cookbook and I can't make her):

Tasha Alexander chimed in with: "I don't think anything could make me cull cookbooks. Favorites: Julia Child Mastering the Art v.1, The Pasta Book (Williams Sonoma), A Mediterranean Feast, David Lebovitz's Perfect Scoop and his Ready for Dessert, Joy of Cooking, Rick Bayless Mexican Everyday, Betty Crocker, Classical Turkish Cooking, Memories of a Cuban Kitchen, The Flavor of France, A Taste of Madras... I'm completely out of control."
Tasha adds, on cookbooks with Mom's notes in the margins: "Cookbook marginalia is essential!"

And this list of cookbooks and a tasty memory comes from author William Martin: "Silver Palate. Definitely. Craig Claiborne's NYTimes cookbook. And The Grand Central Oyster Bar Cookbook, published in 1977, the year of my first trip to NYC to talk to an editor, who gave me a copy of the book as I was leaving. I still have the book and use it whenever I buy a piece of fish. An easy and excellent recipe for bouillabaise. Oh... and he published my first novel."

So, gentle Reds, what are your keeper cookbooks? New ones? Old ones? Which have earned their keep on your shelf??




Monday, April 23, 2012

Cookbook Nostalgia


LUCY BURDETTE: The other day I realized how much my search for recipes for favorite or new foods has changed. These days I almost always find them online-either I run across recipes on the web that sound yummy, like those from my pals on Mystery Lovers Kitchen, or I search sites like Epicurious. Of course I often look up basic stuff in the JOY OF COOKING. And I know plenty of folks rely on TV cooking shows and celebrity recipes.

And that made me nostalgic for the old days, when my first go-to cooking bible was THE MOOSEWOOD COOKBOOK. My first copy is dog-eared and stained; I remember eating tons of food like mushroom strudel (1/2 pound butter plus cream cheese plus sour cream), Vericheesy Casserole (soybeans and brown rice), and Sour Cream-Orange Cake (soaked in Grand Marnier, which I served to my dissertation committee after they'd accepted my opus--the cake, not the booze). Molly Katzen came out with sequels and the new, improved lower-fat version, but I loved the first one the best.

Do you have an old favorite cookbook that's fallen out of favor? Where do you go when you need guidance these days?

HALLIE EPHRON:
Here are my two favorite cookbooks: "The Joy of Cooking" and "Michael Fields Cooking School." Both belonged to my mother. "Joy" taught me the basics. But the most recipes that I still make regularly for very special company are from Michael Fields. His curried chicken (made with an apple) and his broiled butterflied boneless leg of lamb with egg lemon sauce are sublime.

These days I go to Epicurious for recipes. It's not just the recipes but the reader comments that give you a real sense of whether the recipes work (or don't).

RHYS BOWEN: Oh my goodness, I grew up with Mrs. Beaton--you know, recipe for oxtail soup is "first take your ox."  Everything has at least half a pound of butter and is made in about ten stages. But it was what my mother used. I also had a binder of recipes my mother-in-law sent me. And these were mostly from the war--terribly economical. As I learned to cook I branched out to Julia Child (I even served souffles as a starter once. I was so ambitious in those days). But when I married John I had to learn to cook curries and Asian food as he'd spent so much time in Asia and then became sales manager of Air India.

More recently I buy cook books for the pretty pictures and for nostalgia. One day I'll go through the wad of magazine clippings in my kitchen drawer.

LUCY: I love that Rhys--first take your ox! And I have a drawer stuffed with clippings too...

JAN BROGAN - Lucy, I have the Moosewood Cookbook, too, although I have to confess I haven't used it as much as you did.  I love the Joy of Cooking, the Silver Palette, The New York Time's Sixty Minute Gourmet,  and I still use Giada de Laurentiis's Giada's Family dinners.  

But you a right Roberta, they get a lot less use these days. I love calling up five different recipes for the same thing online and patching them together for my own version.

ROSEMARY HARRIS: I did a serious cookbook purge a few years ago. My husband used to work for Random House (think Clarkson Potter)and then Workman Publishing so I had tons of cookbooks - many of them beautiful but never used. I grew to love SOAR (Searchable Online Access to Recipes), but I think that morphed into something else, so I just google whatever I want and voila, it pops up. Usually it's on the Food Channel or All Recipes site
http://allrecipes.com/

Some of the books I had to keep, even if I only love one recipe from the book and by rights, should know it by heart by now. Joy of Cooking - eggnog recipe, Cooking from Quilt Country - Onion pie, the charmingly named Desperate Measures, 90 Unintimidating Recipes for the Domestically Inept - Patsy Cline's chili and gorognzola scallion cornbread

The one I still use most often, drum roll... Martha Stewart's Entertaining. I'm on my third copy, but have kept the first. Old, sticky, and has my handwritten notes "like use the dark, brown sugar."

DEBORAH CROMBIE: Lucy, I still have my Moosewood books, but I've kept them for the illustrations.  I don't think I ever actually made a single recipe from either of them!

The books I loved, and still use, are Laurel's Kitchen, Laurel's Kitchen Bread Book (second or third copies of both, as they wore out), The Dairy Hollow House Soup and Bread Book by my friend and past JR guest Crescent Dragonwagon, and Laurie Colwin's Home Cooking and More Home Cooking. My mother was a big Adele Davis fan, so many of my basic cooking techniques came from that.

Current faves?  Lots of Jamie Oliver.  I adore Jamie, and have never made a recipe I didn't like.  Some Gordon Ramsay, the simple stuff.  And my very latest, Robin Ellis's Delicious Dishes for Diabetics.  I'm not diabetic, but from the previous list you can see I'm a life-long whole foods nut, and love Mediterranean-style food, so I'm really enjoying this book.  (And besides, Robin is adorable.

And, I use the online recipes, too, but am not giving up my cookbooks.

HANK PHILLIPPI RYAN: Yes, I have a lot of cookbooks, too. And I actually used to cook. :-)  You know what was the absolutely pivotal transcendent constantly useful and still-relevant one? The Blue Strawberry Cookbook, by James Haller. I'm telling you--it--taught me how to cook. It doesn't have reciptes. It just has--chemistry. WHY things work. That for a roux, you need an oily thing, and an oniony thing, and a thickener, and a liquid. (It could be water, or wine, or chicken broth.) That for pesto, you need a oily thing, and a cheese, and a nut, and a green thing. (But it could be basil or arugula or spinach.) Because--when you know WHY it works, you can make dinner out of anything.
Oh, life-changing.

JULIA SPENCER-FLEMING: Still have, and use, THE JOY OF COOKING. I think my mother gave that and the mid-eighties BETTY CROCKER COOKBOOK to me when I got married. I went through a big foodie period with THE SILVER PALATE COOKBOOK and THE SILVER PALATE GOOD TIMES cookbook. Then I went to law school, and the kids started arriving, and for a few years, my idea of cooking consisted of Kraft Mac n Cheese and take out pizza. Like Ro, I also purged a lot of cookbooks a few years ago: I decided even though there were some great, great recipes, it didn't make sense for me to keep my shelf loaded up with books I didn't use.

My current every night fave is DESPERATION DINNERS by Beverly Mills and Alicia Ross. The best book for cooking fast, without relying on lots of processed foods. For fancier fare, I like RECIPES FROM A VERY SMALL ISLAND by Martha Greenlaw. The recipes rely heavily on Maine foods; it has the most amazing blueberry section. Also? Gingerbread to die for.

LUCY: Oh Julia, we must have a gingerbread bake-off. The recipe in the Moosewood Enchanted Broccoli Forest is killer too--lots of fresh ginger! Now your turn: cookbooks you love? where do your recipes come from?