Sunday Recipe: Delicious Shortbread

JULIA SPENCER-FLEMING: I know for many of you, the best part of my week is getting a new Sunday recipe from our resident caterer/organizing expert/world traveler Celia Wakefield. Today, it's not dinner, but dessert - homemade shortbread. And friends, I have had this shortbread and it is to make the angels weep. I'll let Celia tell you all about it.

Good morning to my dear Jungle Red authors and readers. It's Julia's week and I love her generosity sharing her space with me. SO many lovely JRW books are available right now. This community has introduced me to some funny, scary, sexy, delicious stories. What to read first? Maybe this is the best of times? Still what could be better than a delicious cooking tale? Pour yourself a cup of whatever cheers and here's my story of how I became a 'successful' baker during COVID-19.  Those of us with Scots blood know that our national instinct is to pinch pennies till they squeal. But how does this skill fit with learning to bake shortbread? Well if you're sitting comfortably, I'll begin.

I don't consider myself a baker, not in the true sense of the word. I am impatient, and not always as careful with reading and following instructions as I might. Setting up as a caterer meant that baking would be as important a skill as offering food for sale. One must retool one's attitude as well as ones skills. 

So I taught myself how to successfully make pastry. Short crust, suet pastry (an English speciality), and queen of them all, puff pastry. Yes, I mastered them by following recipes from Julia Child, Rosemary Spry, and other cookery leaders in the '60's and '70's. Julia Child has the best, most simple puff pastry method ever. I mastered the techniques turning out pies sweet and savory, rolls and cookies which were very popular served with a lemon or chocolate mousse. A second big gift of gratitude goes to Julia Child for her chocolate mousse cake from "Julia Child andCompany"*, her television show. I never saw the TV shows but the two books are cooking goldmines, and I own two copies of each.

 Now, many years later, retired from catering with cooking restricted to family and friends, I very seldom make those dishes. However the pandemic has given me two gifts; time and baking supply shortages. These may not sound like gifts but it's straw to gold, or retooling my focus to delicious effect.

As the news from abroad on COVID-19 got worse in early February, it made sense to stock up on flour and sugar among other staples. Then I could, with help of Mark Bittman or Jacques Pepin, bake a loaf if push came to shove. My main fun was reading the recipes in the New York Times and watching Jacque Pepin's videos. Imagine my delight when I came across a simple version of shortbread from Melissa Clark. Store bought shortbread is pricey, we weren't going to the supermarket, and it's Victor's fav, so I was hoping this version might be the one. I had researched shortbread recipes, baked, failed more times than I had good outcomes, but here was the gold standard recipe. This shortbread technique was apparently created by a NYC baker. However, Nate Chasse of Sweet and Savory Bakery here in Maine, who trained at the CIA, confirmed that resting the dough overnight is the key. I have added two simple Hacks that work.

The actual recipe is simple:

Line an 8"x9" baking pan with parchment paper. I do this by measuring the base of the pan and cutting a rectangle which is two inches wider than the measurement on each side.

Snip each corner to fit, then place the paper back on your counter.

Melt (1/2#) or 2 sticks of butter and cool.

Into a bowl, measure:

2C flour, 

1/4C corn starch or rice flour,

1/4C sugar,

1/2tsp. salt

Mix dry ingredients together briefly. (I use a hand held mixer on low). 

Pour in the butter, and combine all quickly. 

HACK 1.

Place the ball of dough on the parchment paper, then both lightly but swiftly roll and pat the dough to fit the outline of the pan. 

Carefully lift the paper and dough into the pan.

With wet fingers work dough into the corners and check for evenness.

HACK 2.

Place in a plastic bag or cover with plastic wrap and place in refrigerator over night or for at least two - four hours.

When ready to bake heat the oven to 325 degrees F.

Remove pan from plastic wrap or bag

Bake for twenty minutes reverse pan and bake for another 15-25 minutes till very pale gold. Remove from the oven, allow to rest for a couple of minutes, then carefully lift out the paper onto a baking rack to cool, and after five minutes or so cut into squares or fingers. Time to ENJOY!

The last time I made shortbread I doubled the recipe, put half into the baking pan and rolled out the other half on parchment but placed it on a cookie sheet. No squared corners but it baked just as well.

I found that parchment paper washes well. I use my sheet four to six times before discarding. Lay on the counter next to your sink, use a soapy sponge to clean off crumbs, then rinse soap off and lay out to dry.

*pub: Alfred A. Kopf

JULIA: There you have it, dear readers! Has staying at home forced you to spin straw to gold by sharpening one skill or another?

Melissa Clark's Cornbread Muffins

LUCY BURDETTE: Happy Sunday everyone! I love, love, love cornmeal muffins but I've found the ones I made in the past turned out dry, a poor shadow of the muffins from my favorite Connecticut bakery, Four and Twenty Blackbirds. When I spotted this recipe in the Wednesday food section of the Times, I had to try it. I take no credit for designing this recipe--all of that goes to Melissa Clark in the New York Times food section. I do get credit for noticing how fabulous these muffins sounded, making them myself, and now encouraging you! This is not a dietetic recipe, it's for a special occasion.

Here's what you'll need:

2 sticks butter (yup, that's right, 2)
1 and 1/2 cups flour
2 cups cornmeal 
2/3 cups sugar
1 and 1/2 tablespoons baking powder (I always choose the low-sodium brand)
1/2 tsp salt (I cut this in half from 1 tsp)
1/4 tsp baking soda
1 cup sour cream or whole milk yogurt
1/2 cup milk (you might as well use whole)
2 eggs at room temp

Preheat the oven to 400. Put cupcake liners in a cupcake pan.

Melt the butter. When it's cool, whisk in the sour cream, milk, and eggs.

In a separate bowl, whisk the dry ingredients together. 

Fold the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients. Drop the batter into the prepared pan and sprinkle a bit of coarse sugar on the tops if you like. Bake until golden and beginning to brown around the edges, 18-20 minutes

(This was Melissa Clark's recipe from the New York Times and I can't recommend it highly enough!)

This is a perfect fall muffin--good for October, Thanksgiving, Christmas, anytime really. Do you have a favorite baked treat for this shoulder season?